Three Fingered Jack

Three Fingered Jack Trip Report (#11889)

  • Signed By: Stefan Feller of Auburn, WA, USA
  • Date submitted: September 29, 1999
  • Date(s) climbed: 9/28/99
  • Number of People Encountered:

Hike the Pacific Crest Trail north from Santiam Pass in Oregon for about 2 hours. There will be an obvious cairn right next to the trail where two trails split. Take the right trail. Follow this sandy trail up to the south ridge of Three Fingered Jack. Ascend the south ridge up and over blocks following the climbers path as closely as possible. The climbing is class 2 and class 3. The climbers path follows the path of least resistance along this ridge. You will eventually come to a large gendarme which looks like it can not be passed. It can be passed on the right via a downward sloping ledge (5.1) and the color is slightly manilla rock. This is called the "crawl". You can also drop 8 feet just before this ledge and then traverse over and up on loose scree staying below the ledge--you will need to reattain the south ridge though. After the "crawl" or low traverse you will come to an 8 foot wall which is class 4. After this minor wall you will come to the base of the summit pinnacle which has a minor gully. Climb the minor gully which has 40 feet of class 5.0 climbing. Use protection with 1 or lower in a crack on the right side. After the 40 feet of climbing it is class 3 scrambling to the summit. Rappel the route.

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