Castor is one of the easiest 4000 meter peaks in the Alps. Together with Pollux, it forms the "Zwillinge", which is German for twins. In high season it can be really crowded on the peak, for many climbs (often with guide), are made from the Klein-Matterhorn cablecar-station at 3883m. The mountain is much more impressive from the Italian side then from the Swiss, and heavily glaciated on all sides. The view is magnificent; To the east in the distance the mighty Mont Blanc massif; closer Dent d'Herence, and Matterhorn. Mostly the ascent is made over the Passo di verra (Zwillingsjoch), at 3845m.
|Difficulty:||Basic Snow/Ice Climb|
|Nearest major airport:||Milano, Torino, Geneva, Z?rich|
|Convenient Center:||Zermatt, St Jaques, Gressoney|
There are 25 trip reports for Castor.
- Log #11918 - by Dennis James Atherton on Aug 12, 2004Climbed Castor solo from kl.Matterhorn on a fine day in the Alps....Great snow/ice crested ridge leading to the summit....
- Log #11919 - by
Debby Richman on July 21, 2004Great upward trek. Really nice day coupled with Pollux. Traveled from D'Ayas to Sella Hut, by going over Castor. Very windy on ridge during this ascent, so weather conditions matter.
- Log #11920 - by Pieter Hallewas on July 21, 2004Beautiful peak for a first 4000+ altitude experience. Only the last part on the thin iceridge requires some concentration. Descent to the Gnifetti hutte in wonderful powder :-)
- Log #11921 - by
Mike Rix on Nov 09, 2003An easy peak with a nice view. We had a perfect day, and very good snow conditions. The only difficulty were a few meters on the final ridge, a bit exposed.
- Log #11922 - by Silvano Turati on Jan 25, 2003Nice peak! I was there last summer with a beautifol day, coming from the hut Guide d`Ayas, after climbing the Pollux. Ciao
- Log #11923 - by Alberto on Aug 23, 2002Quick and easy ascent from west ridge, after a scary descent from Pollux by east ridge: unstable rock/stones and too soft snow. If you want to cross Pollux, is better to climb from east ridge to the...
- Log #11924 - by Mike Rooke on July 29, 2002Walked in from the Kleine Matterhorn ski slopes. Navigation was easy due to the number of parties in front of us. A super steep climb up on to a short narrow summit ridge. Great views.
- Log #11925 - by Chandra-Luciano Malorni on July 16, 2002Vedere le prime luci del mattino sulle vette di queste grande montagne è un impressione, un emozione che rimarra fissa nel cuore per sempre. E poi il panorama dalla vetta, vicinissimi Cervino,...
- Log #11926 - by Joseph Puliafico on July 05, 2002I did a solo ascent of this peak as a warm up for the Matterhorn. It was a gorgeous sunny day w/ light winds. The view was stellar. The summit ridge was a very exposed (sevral thousand feet on either...
- Log #11927 - by BRIGNOLO ROBERTO on Mar 16, 2002I climbed this peak in July 1980, strating from Rifugio Quintino Sella and Climbing the easiest way ( a very nice ice ridge) . Good Whether and landscape very beautiful and extended. The opposite...
- Log #11928 - by Janos Granicz on Feb 28, 2002Karoly Barta - Richard Kovacs - Bela Raucsik - Janos Granicz Our route: Mezzalama Hut - Guide Val d' Ayas Hut - Castor - Zwillingsjoch (Passo di Verra) - Guide Val d' Ayas Hut - Mezzalama Hut.
- Log #11929 - by
Ben Francis on Aug 08, 2001An easy walk, with a steep slope, then a great final short ridge to the summit. Just watch out for the Bergmeisters - they have egos as large as the mountains!
- Log #11930 - by isabel Breyer on Aug 06, 2001we took the normal route from Kleine Matterhorn
- Log #11931 - by Wim Roelants on Aug 05, 2001From Quintino Sella Hut to Klein Matterhorn (the reverse way). Easy from hut to summit. Alone on the summit. The Klein Matterhorn crowd didn't arrive yet.
- Log #11932 - by Chris Sellars on June 17, 2001Easy snow climb @ PD. Nice ridge at the top
- Log #11933 - by Carli Marco on Feb 13, 2001...dal Lyskamm, prima di scendere al Rifugio Guide della Val d'Ayas, salita al Castore. Giornata stupenda.
- Log #11934 - by Daniele Guastavino on Aug 17, 2000Bella salita...tempo stupendo...in due ore e mezza circa dal Rifugio Sella... Primo 4000 per una mia amica.
- Log #11935 - by Accomazzo Andrea on Feb 25, 2000My second 4000 mt. Everything was great but visibility: no more than 50 meters.
- Log #11936 - by Oyvind Lind Petersen on Jan 20, 2000We had to turn around 150 meters before the peak because I had problems with my crampoons and the leg to my german friend broke down. That means I have to return next summer and pay a fortune to...
- Log #18879 - by Dennis Atherton on Feb 14, 2006Straightforward from the kleine matterhorn. Lovely summit slope gained after tricky bergschrund...Asbseil/belay pole fixed into rock at base of summit slope.....great views of liskamm and Monte Rosa...
- Log #21779 - by Christine Theodorovics on Sep 28, 2009Climbed Castor after having climbed Pollux. Started at the Kleine Matterhorn. Easy mountain (apart from the height), beautiful crest!
- Log #21863 - by Koen on Jan 24, 2010Did it on the same day after Pollux starting from the bivouac hut.
- Log #22134 - by Caj E Svensson on Feb 08, 2011We, Eva, Caj and Anders, started out from the Val d'Ayas hut in almost alpine way just before dawn. Climbed the south slope and across the bergschrund to reach the summit ridge. Nice and narrow path...
- Log #22240 - by JimPulcrano on Aug 31, 2011Beautiful climb. Not that difficult if one is comfortable in crampons, using an ice axe and walking on a narrow ridge. Long slog to and from the Klein Matterhorn cable car.
- Log #22547 - by Agnese on Aug 15, 2016We woke up in a strong and freezing wind and decided to wait for better weather, as it was forecasted. Those who left the refuge Quintino Sella, on the Italian side, despite the wind, came back a...