Mount Hope

Elevation (feet): 12,200
Elevation (meters): 3,719
Continent: North America
Country: United States
Range/Region: Wrangell Mountains
State: Alaska
Latitude: 60.7036
Longitude: -141.0614
Difficulty: Technical Climb
Best months for climbing: May, Jun, Jul
Year first climbed: July, 1998
First successful climber(s): Michael Coyne, Michael Daly, Fred Birchenough: Expedition Outreach
Nearest major airport: Anchorage, Alaska
Convenient Center: Paul Claus's Ultima Thule

Thanks to Michael Coyne and Terrill Thompson for contributing to these details. (View history)

Mount Hope is a spectacular ridge walk with up to Alaskan grade three snow & ice with one challenging but fun 5.4. Paul Claus from Ultima Thule is your only chance of seeing this peak. Let him know that you are interested in making the ascent and he will fly you in during a break in the weather.

Basecamp is safe (few crevasses) and is situated among a beautiful cirque of mountains. Ascend the lowest point on the ridge (Daly Traverse) and either climb in one long day or set up a high camp on the ridge. A flat area is found at Alex's Rock right above the obvious traverse. Climb the ridge over the Birchenough rock step (5.4) then onto easier ground. which increases in steepness (snow & ice, Alaskan grade three. Christines shoulder is a large flat area perfect for your high camp. ascend this almost never ending ridge (The AC Memorial Ridge) to several false summits each more steep and picturesque than the former. You will be sure that you have arrived at the summit when you have arrived at Angie's Peak. (Named after our ABC reporter friend who collapsed here. Continue down the ridge for a short stretch then up to the true summit. The crux will be right at the summit cone. Beware of the hue cornices that form there. For more info check out

www.expedition-outreach.org

Trip Reports

NOTE: Trip reports were previously called "Summit Logs" - same feature, new name

There is one trip report for Mount Hope.

Select any entry from the list below:

  • Log #12304 - by leopaik on July 22, 2001
    nice, easy hike with a bit of exposure on the last bit to the top