Dhaulagiri Trip Report (#22325)

  • Signed By: cleo weidlich
  • Date submitted: June 27, 2012
  • Date(s) climbed: May 5, 2012 to May 26, 2012
  • Number of People Encountered:11-25 people
  • Recommend to a Friend: Highly

Dhaulagiri (I) was one of my most difficult climbs. The first obstacle on the mountain is right in front of BC, known as the Little Eiger, Lots of rock fall and ice avalanches as you traverse this dangerous face on the way to C1, Camp II is very avalanche prone (many deaths have occurred there). I climbed on difficult terrain, slabs of hard snow and below it soft slippery snow on steep terrain. The traverse below the summit is prone to rock fall and the gully that leads to the summit is covered with blue ice. I didn't have enough rope to fix the gully so I free climbed it, there was no margin of error, one mistep and I would have gone straight to the glacier thousands of feet below. The wind is fierce and very cold. I had to bivvy at 7,550m. Extremely dangerous and difficult terrain above C3. Here I set a world record.

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