This peak lies on private property, so it could be a problem to access. Usually you can contact the hacienda for permission. It is the fourth highest peak in Equador. It seldomly sees climbers so there is no route to follow. There is also no climbers hut and needs to be accessed with a 4WD vehicle. Camp can be made at about 14,500ft below what seems to be the best route that season. The glaciers change quite a bit from year to year, so there are several routes from which to choose from. The climb is steep and there are many hidden crevasses. At about 18,000ft there is about 100ft of 65 degree climbing and then a traverse to the left which requires a fixed line and then leads up to the summit plateau. It is a hard climb, but so incredibly beautiful, but the best part is to have the entire mountain to yourself and not see another soul for days.
|Difficulty:||Basic Snow/Ice Climb|
|Best months for climbing:||Jan, Feb, Dec|
|First successful climber(s):||Edward Whimper|
|Nearest major airport:||Quito|
Thanks to Charlie Shyab for adding this peak.
There are 5 trip reports for Antisana.
- Log #13075 - by Jacinto Alveres on June 28, 2004As nobody answered, I accepted the risk and travelled with Ecuadorian Alpine Institute. I can assure you that they are very good. We went to Guagua Pichincha, Cayambe, Cotopaxi and Chimborazo...
- Log #13076 - by Vlad Broz on Dec 12, 2003Two days after getting stormed off Cotopaxi at 17,000, my guide, Rene Flores and I Land Rovered high up the NW corner of Antisana. While setting up camp we were greeted by six Condors circling 100...
- Log #13078 - by Peter Knuckey. on Mar 08, 2001Get fit, Drink plenty of water, pray for clear weather and hope like hell an avalance has bridged the shrund near the top. Most importantly...... Don't forget to take the lucky cuye (guinea pig), to...
- Log #13079 - by Matt Lovell (with Steve Worth Flores on Mar 06, 2001A long day (left camp 2:30 a.m., on summit 9:46 a.m.) on the West Face Direct Route, ultimately jogging quite a bit to the North to circumvent the substantial summit crater. Climbing at top was most...
- Log #13080 - by Willi Kuhn on Feb 16, 2000Leaving base camp at 01.00 a.m. back at 10.30 a.m. beatyful weather. Reaching the top at 07.