Tocllaraju Trip Report (#13093)

We climbed this beautiful mountain on 9-18-03. We started at 1:00 AM in the summit by 8:30 AM. The advance base camp was uncomfortable due so strong windS. Several parties bailed out due wind and very cold temperatures. The route requieres of a long, long walk, but after a few hours gets interesting. The normal route has changed. We had to go between 3 huge seracs and a clift. They were not exactly steady and hearing their noysed was pretty scary after that we continued following a very clear route (with little poles and plastic flags believe it or not) the only problem was that the little flags took us in front of a huge crevase and the natural bridge that used to be there is gone. GO TO THE LEFT and take the arista, it is longer but you will save time. We crossed this green and blue monster, hanging there in a rope with so high winds WAS NOT FUN. Last 80 meters very exposed, no chance for screws roten/ melting ice. Way back in 3 rappels from the summit, some problems fixing protections. Good luck and keep climbing.

Tocllaraju Trip Report Index