Alpamayo Trip Report (#55)

stayed out all night at El Tambo, packed at 6am for a 7 am departure, somehow forgot my crampons had to borrow a pair from a climber descending the mountain. sustained a back injury at the moraine camp and was unable to carry a full load to establish col camp, so used vicodins to climb from moraine camp with a very light pack, just water and rope,started at 0200. summited around 9 am. my partner had horrid diarhea and slowed us so we ended up last on the route, at final belay large piece of ice was needlessly pried loose by a client above us, struck the girl next to me at the belay hard enough to knock her out briefly. she seemed to be lucid enough to manage the rappel (with a belay)got back to col camp at 2pm. ran out of vicodin on the hike out so went to El tambo for relief.

learned: carry less stuff (now i use a 3200 cu in pack) carry more vicodin never climb below anyone but especially clients pack before staying out all night at el tambo.

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