Mount Foraker

Photo of Mount Foraker
Photo uploaded by Phillip Norman

Mount Foraker is the second highest summit of the Alaska Range, and the sixth highest in North America. It is located fifteen miles southwest of Denali (20,320 ft.), North America's highest peak. Most of the mountain lies within Denali National Park, and is accessed by the Kahiltna Glacier, which is also the starting point for Denali West Buttress climbs. Foraker's native name Sultana means wife (of Denali), and the native name for nearby Mount Hunter (14,573 ft.) is Begguya, meaning child (of Denali).

Elevation (feet): 17,400
Elevation (meters): 5,304
Continent: North America
Country: United States
Range/Region: Alaska Range
State: Alaska
Latitude: 62.9608
Longitude: -151.398
Difficulty: Basic Snow/Ice Climb
Best months for climbing: Apr, May, Jun
Year first climbed: 1934
First successful climber(s): Charles Hutson, T. Graham Brown, C. Waterston
Nearest major airport: Anchorage, Alaska
Convenient Center: Talkeetna, Alaska

Trip Reports

There are 13 trip reports for Mount Foraker.

  • Log #2165 - by Morgen Julia Schreiner-Foraker on Apr 22, 20043.00 stars
    I'm also a descendant of Mr. Joseph B. Foraker. I take pride in the gorgeous mountain that bears my family name. In fact, I have a picture of the towering summit in my living room.
  • Log #2166 - by Daniel Vachon on Jan 07, 20043.00 stars
    Daniel Vachon , Jean Francois Gagnon ,Julien Dery & Graham Sanders made the first ascent of the Pink Panther on East face of Foraker .The biggest thrill of my life. We made the ascent in 6 days...
  • Log #2167 - by Foraker Lambdin, Jr on Sep 27, 20033.00 stars
    My grandfather named my father-"Foraker", because of a Mr. Foraker he met from an Ohio regiment during the Civil War. I suspect this was Charles Benson Foraker. My father passed the name on...
  • Log #2169 - by Kevin, Travis and Colby Strawn on June 24, 20023.00 stars
    The bodies of these three brothers were found at the 8500 ft level, still roped together - on June 17th, 2002. Kevin, Travis and Colby's family recovered photographic evidence from the remains of...
  • Log #2170 - by Joseph Foraker on Jan 10, 20023.00 stars
    I have never climbed the mountain i was just look at the site. My grandmother told me about the peek so i was quit impressed to find that there are this many site about it!! cool my family is...
  • Log #2171 - by Mark C. Husbands on Sep 28, 20003.00 stars
    Via Sultana, nice route, amazing views, doesn't really deserve its reputation as a boring slog, although the primary challenge is one of endurance. Long summit day from 11,6 to 17,4(5,800 ft.) You...
  • Log #2172 - by Blake Stanfield & Rory Stark on Sep 27, 20003.00 stars
    Left Kahiltna Base Camp for the Sultana Ridge on May 1 with 4 days of food. Had 2 bad weather days and with energy and food running low, reached the summit in 50 mph winds on May 6. Made it back to...
  • Log #2173 - by Daniel Johnson on May 05, 20003.00 stars
    Hi how are you doing . My dream and goal is to climb mountain. I want to climb E-1 and k-2 and 8 more and i want to touch 10 different mountain only highest mountain only 10 . I am learn some of it...
  • Log #2174 - by juan pedro horta nuo on Aug 27, 19993.00 stars
    I climbed the Sultana in 13 days with several storms and showers , we stay in side of the tent at camp 1 for 1 day camp 2 for 2 day we make a emergency camp before cross the Mt. Crosson the next day...
  • Log #2175 - by Stu Macdonald, Andy Gallagher Evans on May 24, 19993.00 stars
    Enjoyable Route. We were lucky with the weather. Top tip is to move lightweight and fast. We carried ten days freeze dried food.
  • Log #2176 - by Dave Peel on Feb 22, 19993.00 stars
    Reached summit with Paul in worsening weather via Archangel Ridge. Great Route and very remote. I believe we took a slightly different line to the first assent in order to reach the Angles Way....
  • Log #2177 - by Gerry Roach on Jan 15, 19993.00 stars
    1st ascent of the Archangel Ridge, Foraker's North Ridge. We approached with horses from Wonder Lake. Team members were: Gerry Roach, Barb Roach, Brad Johnson, Stu Krebs, Charlie Cambell, Dave...
  • Log #21785 - by Earl Redman on Oct 10, 20093.00 stars
    We attempted to climb Foraker from the west in March 1977. We started from a small airstrip at Perkypile and spent a week skiing and scrambling to the base of the NW spur to the west ridge of...