|Range/Region:||Central Nepal Himalaya|
|Difficulty:||Major Mountain Expedition|
|Best months for climbing:||Apr, May, Sep, Oct|
|Year first climbed:||1961|
|First successful climber(s):||Mike Gill, Barry Bishop, Mike Ward, Wally Romanes|
|Nearest major airport:||Kathmandu, Nepal|
|Convenient Center:||Namche Bazar, Nepal|
Ama Dablam, whose name means Mother and her Necklace, is a beautiful mountain, located almost due south of Mount Everest and Lhotse in the Khumbu region. It stands among many 22,000 to 24,000 foot peaks that surround the high valleys of this region, yet stands out by way of its classic beauty: It is a steep pyramid of ice with vertical walls and sharp, exposed ridges. It is often compared to the Matterhorn, but is 10,000 feet taller. Ama Dablam forms a lasting impression on many trekkers in Nepal, as it is perhaps the most stunning mountain along the popular trekking route to Everest Base Camp.
The following weather information is provided for the nearest supported peak. The weather icons reflect weather conditions from the base of the mountain, while the wind, temperature and humidity reflect conditions at the summit.
Weather by meteoexploration.
NOTE: Trip reports were previously called "Summit Logs" - same feature, new name
There are 50 trip reports for Ama Dablam.
Select any entry from the list below:
- Log #21736 - by Lyngve on Aug 10, 2009I joined a Fieldtouring Alpine expedition in autumn 2005 and reached the summit on a cold November-day. See the trip report and photos here: http://distantpeak.com/web/mountains/asia/ama_dablam
- Log #21546 - by Chris Szymiec on Dec 16, 2008Please be well aware that Ama Dablam is becoming more difficult from 6300M to the summit. What used to be a nice 50 degree snow slope is now a 50 degree blue ice and mixed climb. I would highly...
- Log #21227 - by rob lyons on Mar 22, 2008certainly one of the most breathtaking and rewarding summits around ; if that is, it wasn't for the hoards of commercial guide companies on the mountain. all routes on this peak are "tight" to say...
- Log #20702 - by Louis Kosztelny on Mar 23, 2007SW ridge, standard route, guided by Adventure Consultants (New Zealand). Camp 3 got avalanched and four people perished only ten days after we had summited. Future expeditions should be careful...
- Log #20560 - by Gábor Vass dr. on Dec 28, 20062006.10.23.
- Log #18741 - by tim colquhoun on Feb 14, 2006the sw ridge of ama dablam ,awesome veiws and great climbing,most beautiful mountain in the world.
- Log #111 - by Roddy MacLennan on Nov 01, 2004Went on that trip (H Todd-led) for my 50th birthday.(A paid for by my insurance-driven beloved...) Site of Camp 1 in itself worth the effort. I couldn't hack the climbing pace of the younger crowd -...
- Log #112 - by Mark Valdez on Aug 24, 2004Soled from Camp 2 and back in 15 hours on a beautiful day. Can't wait to do something else.
- Log #113 - by Adrian Hayes on June 15, 2004Summitted direct from Camp 2 at 1430 hrs on 21st. Lucky with weather, as fellow permit members (Ascending Path exped) got bogged down by foot of snow the next 3 days. Would def recommend setting up a...
- Log #115 - by TODD PASSEY on Nov 04, 2003Great peak to climb. There are fixed ropes from just beyond camp one all the way to the summit. Turning this technical climb into a possibility for people other than only world-class climbers. Having...
- Log #116 - by Armando Corvini on Oct 09, 2003Our team of six climbers, divided in two team of three reached the summit of AmaDablam via the Lagunak Ridge, the American Route. Our was the 3rd. ascent. First team: Vera Wong,Andrew MacAuley, Rod...
- Log #117 - by
benjack on Sep 04, 2003First big mountain. Exellent experience.
- Log #118 - by John Michaud on Aug 04, 2003Summitted with Scott Johnston and John Tuckey. Gary Neptune led the expedition, and subsequently soloed the route. I think we did the first post-monsoon ascent. Awesome trip.
- Log #120 - by Hayden Brotchie on June 19, 2003Climbed via South-West Ridge to Summit.
- Log #123 - by Frits Vrijlandt on Feb 24, 2003Beautiful mountain, nice climb via the SW ridge. It was the 2nd Dutch ascent.
- Log #124 - by alan bristow on Feb 17, 20034 members of our 6 man british ama dablam expedition made it to the summit. The first post monsoon full brit team ever?( all from the york mountaineering club, york uk),not only that we are all good...
- Log #125 - by Andrew Burns on Jan 09, 2003up the south east ridge and down std route
- Log #126 - by Simon Piper on Dec 11, 2002Beautiful mountain. Went with Henry Todd as expedition guide. Much rope was replaced prior to and during our climb. Sherpas were nice guys and did enough to help - setting up tents at camp 3,...
- Log #127 - by Christina (Tina) Eide on Oct 24, 2002What an incredible peak! Doug Grady, my fiance, and I summitted last year on this day as an unsupported team of two. We went from Camp 3 to the summit, and returned to Camp 3 that evening. It is some...
- Log #128 - by Armando Corvini on May 25, 2002I was the leader of the Australian American Ama Dablam south east ridge expedition 1994 Nepal
- Log #129 - by INOKUCHI Haruki on Apr 04, 2002Ama Dablam is not so difficult in technic. It's depense on the condition of snow and ice. Spring is not good to climb. In 2001 spring, only one party could climb to the summit(May).
- Log #130 - by Alan Kaplan on Mar 21, 2002Summited via the SW ridge on an awesome day. Didn't get down to camp 2 until after dark. Totally wrecked when I got back to basecamp the next day. Absolutely great climb.
- Log #131 - by Jan Mathorne on Mar 05, 2002The first danish Himalya Expedition. Søren Smidt and Bo B. Christensen reached the summit at 12. october 1988 and Jan Mathorne and Henrik Jessen Hansen reached the summit at 19.
- Log #132 - by Smitty on Mar 04, 2002Beautiful rt. (SW Ridge) on a beautiful Mtn. Climbed with a Canadian team lead by Tim Rippel of Nelson BC. No climbing Sherpas
- Log #133 - by
K harper, G Hill on Feb 25, 2002Very Sick, Very Tired, Very Happy
- Log #135 - by Angelika Sontag on Jan 07, 2002With perfect conditions, but extreme cold we reached the summit at 11 am. It's an unforgettable day in my life!
- Log #136 - by Andrea und Markus Good-Wick on Nov 15, 2001Climbed by the SW-ridge on the summit. It was our unforgettable honeymoon.
- Log #137 - by Felix Berg on Nov 04, 2001Climbed by the SW-Ridge by alpine styl. On my homepage you'll find some more information (mainly in German).
- Log #138 - by Simon Yates on Oct 24, 2001Climbed by the classic S.W. Ridge while guiding clients. Wnat to join me another time try: www.newheights.
- Log #139 - by Matt Walker on May 25, 2001sw ridge all free with matthew szundy. push aside fixed lines place a nut, cam, or pin and keep moving. a proud experience to disregard lines and climb a pure line. careful "trusting" fixed...
- Log #141 - by Tom Clowes on May 19, 2001www.amadablam2000.org Follow your heart...
- Log #142 - by Miquel Angel Romero on Apr 12, 2001una ascension fantastica. Gran viaje y buena escalada nen roca y nieve. Quiza demasiada gente
- Log #143 - by Jon Howell on Jan 28, 2001One word of wisdom which I hope will save someone's life...don't go there thinking that you can climb fixed ropes all the way and therefore treat it as a guided tour or via ferrata. There is a lot of...
- Log #144 - by Jeremy on Jan 13, 2001First Accent (to My Knowlage) of the west face. and probley the youngest accent as well (14 years old) i was treking, then my guide got board so we went up the west face (illegaly!)
- Log #145 - by Tom Moores on Dec 20, 2000I think that I'm one of the youngest, if not the youngest Britain to climb Ama Dablam. I'd be interested if anyone knows any differently. When I did it I was 18 years 7 months and 18 days.
- Log #146 - by Bill Gough on Nov 08, 2000We were in base camp October 16, 2000. Trecking not climbing. The weather was great. There were several climbing groups.
- Log #147 - by Alan Arnette on Nov 08, 2000Wonderful mixed technical climb with rock to 5.9.
- Log #148 - by neil witts on Oct 31, 2000just me ,my sherpa,and my girl friend in base camp.no big fuss,no big money,alot off fun and luckly alot off good weather.
- Log #149 - by Hooman Aprin on Sep 24, 2000First Ascent of the "Lagunak Ridge" - Friendship Ridge - on the south east buttress.
- Log #150 - by Neil Morrow on Sep 17, 2000Fixed Lines were plentyful, and after the ridge the wind was mighty. FUN
- Log #151 - by Paul Spitalny on Sep 16, 2000Climbed the peak with Mtn Madness.A great trip with fun people. Ama Dablam had it all: ice, rock, scrambling, killer views, great approach, and a great base camp in a meadow with a stream. My first...
- Log #152 - by Bryan Moore on May 15, 2000Via the North Ridge, traverse to SW ridge First ascent of 2000!!! First traverse of the peak!! NZ Dirtbag Expedition (all 5 members summited) and yes, I'm a girl.
- Log #153 - by Bryan Moore on May 15, 2000Via the North Ridge, traverse to SW ridge First ascent of 2000!!! First traverse of the peak!! NZ Dirtbag Expedition.
- Log #154 - by Willi Kuhn on Feb 16, 2000westface / mingbo
- Log #155 - by Alexis Monnerot-Dumaine on Jan 31, 2000Beautiful summit. It has everything a climber can hope for! Visit my site on http://site.voila.fr/Ama_Dablam5/page0.htm, there is the complete story of our ascent.
- Log #156 - by MICK PARKER on Dec 28, 1999LONG WALK FROM BC TO C1. AFTER THAT, ITS ALL CLIMBING!
- Log #157 - by Stephen Cory Shrader on Dec 11, 1999Wow, great mountai, great trips. The first time i climbed Ama was with Scott Fischer in 93'. Since, I have led 2 other Mountain Madness expeditions, both very successful. I plan on guiding it as long...
- Log #158 - by Peter Mitchell on Dec 01, 1999Wonderful mountain but a lot of dubious fixed rope
- Log #160 - by Robert Chang on Nov 22, 1998Check out my web page correspondence at www.mountainzone.com/climbing/amadablam. Great mountain-completed the standard southwest ridge route.
- Log #161 - by David C Raum on Nov 06, 1998Had a great time,lots of rock climbing,wear approach shoes as log as possible, plastic boots got very heavy.