Ama Dablam

Ama Dablam Trip Report (#115)

  • Signed By: TODD PASSEY
  • Date submitted: November 04, 2003

Great peak to climb. There are fixed ropes from just beyond camp one all the way to the summit. Turning this technical climb into a possibility for people other than only world-class climbers. Having said this, I would not recommend climbing the ropes. Our first attempt, I believe on the eleventh of Oct. Was halted after a German guide fell and died. Apparently he had clipped into an old rope and the rope broke while he was rappelling just above the yellow tower. There are a lot of ropes on the route and many other questionable anchors. The southwest ridge is a beautiful climb, maybe one of my favorite. For those who go my advice is to check ropes and anchors as you climb and before you rappel. Climb the route not the rope. I imagine that there are those who rely almost completely on the fixed rope, which makes them and others more vulnerable to accidents.

Ama Dablam Trip Report Index