Lobuche East is the hardest of the trekking peaks (fee: $350 for four climbers) that commercial groups attempt. In the Everest region(Khumbu) only Kwangde and Kusum Kangguru are more difficult. The main peak of Lobuche, however is to the NW of Lobuche East and is not included in the trekking peak permit. Therefore, a legal climb to Lobuche West (Main) requires an expedition-peak-permit and is considerable more expensive than Lobuche East. Now follows a description of Lobuche East (20075ft, 6119m 27° 57′ 34.2″ N, 86° 47′ 23.8″ E). Very few climbers who attempt this peak reach the real summit, but many attain the worth-while false summit. Good conditions and a dawn or pre-dawn start is recommended. The average angle for the rocky slabs above the lake (high camp) at about 16,500' to the start of the snow ridge at around 18,600' average 45 to 50 degrees and the route is marked with cairns. This is nice for alpine starts. These rock slabs could be tricky with snow on the rock and there are a couple of moves as you approach the SW ridge that parties may want to be roped up to surmount. It is better to avoid the south west face unless you are looking for more of a challenge. Most climbers who take the SW ridge approach stop at the top of the ridge and consider this to be the false summit of Lobuche East. To reach the true summit of Lobuche East, which is a continuation on the knife-edged ridge heading north west, a rope is recommended due to the exposure. A fall here would be disasterous. There is a slight descent from the false summit along the NW ridge and then a steep climb to the highest point on the long summit ridge. This is a couple of rope lenghts at most. From the true East summit, you will see more knife edge ridge leading NW to a massive notch that separates Lobuche East from Lobuche West, which is higher. The true summit proved to be, at first, an unatainable goal, but rocky outliners of Lobuche East were first climbed by the Swiss in 1952. Subsequent attempts fell short of the summit, finally climbed in 1984. Lobuche West was first climbed in 1955, by the South shoulder, which was also the first attempt. Since then the mountain has been scaled only a few times, also by the East-Face.
|Range/Region:||Central Nepal Himalaya|
|Difficulty:||Basic Snow/Ice Climb|
|Best months for climbing:||Apr, May, Sep, Oct, Nov|
|Year first climbed:||1984|
|First successful climber(s):||Laurence Neilson and Ang Gyalzen Sherpa|
|Nearest major airport:||Kathmandu, Nepal|
|Convenient Center:||Namche Bazaar, Nepal|
Thanks to Frank Verwijs for adding this peak.
There are 10 trip reports for Lobuche East.
- Log #13693 - by Armando Corvini on Oct 10, 2003Our team consisted of six climbers and three trekkers. We climbed the South Ridge of Lobuche East in preparation for our bid to climb the Lagunak East Ridge on Ama Dablam, by the American route....
- Log #13694 - by Barton Craig on Feb 24, 2003Our group of four consisted of three Americans and our Sirdhar, Nawang. It snowed lightly the night before our summit attempt but the weather the next day was perfect and we summited in cold clear...
- Log #13695 - by steven feige on Dec 26, 2001the climb was fantastic!!!!!! it drained both my body and my mind. but has rewarded me with strenght and insight .hello to Yoesa and Keekco and lahpka ang sherpa the best sherpa in the world!
- Log #13696 - by Simon Yates on Oct 24, 2001Summited the summit of the east peak guiding a commercial trip. Want to come along next time? Try www.newheights.co.uk
- Log #13697 - by Ian de Bruyn on Sep 04, 2001Our group of 3 was the first to summit Lobuche East after a heavy episode of snow about a week previously. A trail had been partially broken through thick snow up to high camp at about 5500 m (which...
- Log #13698 - by Mark Hale on Apr 21, 2001After a busy month in the Khumbu Region I summitted on Lobuche at 6,189m. Lobuche is a very beautiful peak with some absolutely fantastic views of the Himalayas and with Everest just across the Kumbu...
- Log #13699 - by Alex Carter on Jan 25, 2001I summited Loboche East on December 2, 2000. It kicked my ass, but I made it. Loboche was my first major altitude climb, and it hurt. But I'll go back.
- Log #20704 - by Louis Kosztelny on Mar 23, 2007Climbed Lobuche East in perfect conditions as part of a three peak trekking expedition with World Expeditions (Australia), having done an acclimatisation hike on Gokyo Ri. The other peaks were Island...
- Log #21123 - by Bob Nokoff on Dec 19, 2007No one but us on the true summit of Lobuche but lot's going up to the false summit as we were coming down from the true summit.
- Log #21124 - by Rick Witting on Dec 19, 2007We summited the true summit of Lobuche East with clear blue skies at 9:15 AM after a start from high camp at the lake around 16,500' at 3:00 AM. The summit party consisted of Bob Nokoff and myself,...