Mramornaja Stena

Featured photo of Mramornaja Stena

The peak north from Khan-Tengri. The normal route starts from north side (China Pass), through the Uzlovaya peak, Pogranichnik peak, Plateau (north sumit). Expedition may be started from Bayankol camp. One day from there to the glacier under China Pass. Here BC can be settled if needed.

Last time we climbed we made the route according this schedule:

day1 - 4200m, 1st camp.

day2 - peak Uzlovaja (about 4900m), peak of Kaunas Alpine Club (5000m, in China side), camp 2

day3 - descending down to BC

day4 - rest

day5 - climb over Uzlovaya and Pogranichnik (5000m) peaks to the pass at 4800m. Camp 3

day6 - Plateau (6200m), camp 4

day7 - ascention to the principal summit (6400m), sleeping in camp 4

day8 - descent to the BC

Technicaly easy mountain, just in two or three places need of rock climbing. However be aware of crevases and corniches (!!).

Weather is rapidly changing, expect cruel frost and wind. Good warm plastic shoes is a must (if u wanna get back with all your toes).

Elevation (feet): 20,997
Elevation (meters): 6,400
Continent: Asia
Country: Kazakhstan/China
Latitude: 42.281881
Longitude: 80.267658
Difficulty: Major Mountain Expedition
Best months for climbing: Jul, Aug
Year first climbed: 1953
First successful climber(s): V. Shipilov
Nearest major airport: Almaty International Airport
Convenient Center: Narynkol, Almaty

Thanks to Aldas for adding this peak.

Trip Reports

NOTE: Trip reports were previously called "Summit Logs" - same feature, new name

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