Mount Robson

Mount Robson Trip Report (#6522)

  • Signed By: Dow Williams
  • Date submitted: November 01, 2004
  • Number of People Encountered:0-10 people
  • Recommend to a Friend: Highly

This mountain was my introduction to the great Canadian Rockies. We formed a party of 4, 2 Alaskans, 1 climber from Georgia and myself from Nevada at the time. We flew into Calgary, drove up to Jasper and spent the night. The next morning we hit the Berg Lake trail at a leisurely time and hiked our 60lb+ packs up to Berg Lake. I made the horrible mistake of wearing plastic boots the whole way. Needless to say, my heels became hamburger during this trip. The next day, we again took off at a leisurely time and jumped up on the tongue of the Robson Glacier and proceeded to a small rock cropping below the Extinguisher Tower. We made our second camp here. Extinguisher has a lot of rock fall and reminds you all night where you are. The next day, we roped up and headed for the Dome below the Kain Face. You have the option of tackling the SE ridge gaining the col below Resplendent or sneaking through some decrepit seracs (Mousetrap Icefall) due west towards the Dome. We chose the quicker route and moved about with speed and purpose. This required some good ice climbing skills to vertically traverse some of these leaning ice obstacles. Avalanches were plentiful and we noticed our old tracks were wiped out on our return. By the time we made it to the Dome, we were in all out blizzard conditions at that elevation. We got the tents up and did not set our watch alarms as we assumed we would be weathered in for at least a day. However, I first awoke to an incredible sunrise over a total cloud cover right below us, surreal scene. The GA climber bowed out for the summit attempt, but the rest of us jumped at the opportunity to throw our crampons and ice axes on and hit the 1000'+ ice wall. We then followed the SE approach to the summit. From time to time, we had to climb some steep areas. On the decent, we had one fall. You must be confident in self arrest as this slope does drop almost to the valley floor on the southeast side. We returned to the Dome victorious, slept a little and then came all the way out the next day. We came off via the SE ridge, which required quite a few rappels and down climbing. We took 22 hours to arrive back at the parking lot. I revisited the Robson Glacier in April 2003. My wife and I snow shoed up to the Berg Lake cabin. We spent 2 nights at Berg Lake without a sole in sight and had a great wildlife experience. We had lunch at an ice cave in the glacier. This is a great mountain and park.

Mount Robson Trip Report Index