Little Bear Peak

Little Bear Peak Trip Report (#11252)

  • Signed By: Jason Halladay
  • Date submitted: August 16, 2000
  • Date(s) climbed: 08/05/2000

I had summited Blanca on the fourth of July, 1997. On that trip we hiked all the way from the paved road up Como Lake road to a high camp above Como Lake. We summited Blanca and Ellingwood respectively in one day. It was my 5th and 6th 14er. From Blanca I looked at the traverse between it and Little Bear and swore, "I will never do that!" On Aug. 5th, 2000 I found myself heading up the northwest face of Little Bear with my friends Aron and Steve with the intent of summiting Little Bear and traversing the ridge to Blanca Peak. We left camp from 12,000 ft. at 6:30 a.m. climbed the 3rd and 4th class Northwest face of Little Bear and summited Little Bear at 8:45 a.m. The Northwest face is comprised of loose scree near the base to fairly solid rock with good exposure on the upper portions. We left the summit of Little Bear at 9:30 a.m. and headed across the ridge to Blanca. The traverse is intense. Plenty of exposure with some low 5th class moves in a few spots. Read Roach's description of the route, it's quite accurate. After concentrating hard for 2 hours, 15 mins. we reached the summit of Blanca. Despite the traverse being one of the more spooky traverses I have done, it was a great fun! The day was still young and the weather good so at 12:45 we headed across the basin to the summit of Ellingwood and summited it at 1:20 p.m. A nice rest and down we went to our camp near blue lakes for a night of good rest and pleasant dreams.

Little Bear Peak Trip Report Index