Korona

Elevation (feet): 15,945
Elevation (meters): 4,860
Continent: Asia
Country: Kyrgyzstan
Difficulty: Technical Climb
Best months for climbing: Jul, Aug
Nearest major airport: Bishkek
Convenient Center: Bishkek

Thanks to Gregory Frux for adding this peak.

Peak Korona is the highest peak in Ala-Archa National Park. The valley is at approximately 1800 m., the end of the road. A trail climbs up a valley the Ratzek hut at 3350m, on a glacial moraine adjacent to an ice fall. The hut has several rooms and a good water source. By climbing the morriane and then up across part of glacier (some crevasses) a second hut is reached at 4150m. The higher hut is two small rooms, rather ventilated, just off the glacier. The summit climb follows the left side of the glacier, on the moraine until this peters out. At this point climb up the glacier. Route varies in steepness from 15 degrees to up to 40 degrees. There are some, easy to cross crevasses. A bowl is reached surrounded by six granite tower. Above the bowl the climber crosses the bergshrund and enters steeper terraine. The route here is between 3 and 4 pitches of 35 to 45 degree snow and ice. At this point rock is reached. On pitch of around 5.3 climbing leads to the summit. Watch for loose rock.

Thanks to Gregory Frux for this description.