Rikigo - Rolwaling Himal
|Range/Region:||Sikkim-Eastern Nepal Himalaya|
|Difficulty:||Major Mountain Expedition|
|Best months for climbing:||Oct|
|Year first climbed:||2013|
|First successful climber(s):||Mingma G.Sherpa Team Dreamers Destination - Davide Peluzzi Explora Team|
|Nearest major airport:||Kathmandu|
Rolwaling Mountain - New frontier exploration
"The walls hidden …Bomdok 2013”
The word Rolwaling comes from tibetan language and it means “ deep valley” o “ narrow valley”, holy valley dedicated to the saint Buddhist Rimpoche.
(All the routes start from the village of Singati at 920 meters of altitude. The main valley is oriented towards est-west.)
In 1951, when Eric Shipton and his team, during the explorations of the Nepales side of the EVEREST-GUARISHANKAR, occurred the first exploration of the region Rolwaling Himal.
” This way of going to the mountains, the exploration of unknown peaks, glaciers and valleys, finding and going across new paths that connect a valley to another, is the most fascinating employment that I have ever known.”
“ The variety of experiences, the constant change of scene, the gradual explanation of the scenery of the mountain give a deep satisfaction, giving a real understanding, almost a sense of personal ownership of the entire region.”
The last sixty years did not change the meaning of Shipton’s words, in so doing they make better sense of this Himalayan region…
Fascinating for the solitude and sense of remoteness and wild, it is for sure one the most beautiful places that you can cross in Himalaya.
The strength of its appeal lies in its atmosphere, views and in the sense of adventure that you can live, like advancing into the Drolambau glacier and crossing Tesi Lapacha at 5750 meters or Ripimo glacier, with the impressive wall of Tsoboje 6589 meters, one the unclimbed peaks of the region.
Or trying to climb Bigphera-Go Shar at 6729 meters and with its Bigwall glacier on the north side, connected to Bigphera-Go Nup in front of Tengi Rau Tau 6943 meters.
We are in the north est of Kathmandu in the Everest region, with its complex labyrinth of mountain ranges, at est of Guarishankar, on the Tibetan border line, develops an interesting area of peaks of over 6000 meters still virgin. Only four of them have been climbed, we are in the belly of the Gods, in the place of birth of the Mother Goddess: Tashi Lapcha.
After the exspedition Earth Mater 2011 – EXPLORA, in autumn 2013 ( Expedition Water of the Gods) we went into a large anphitheatre between Kangnakugo 6735 meters, Drakar Go 6793 meters and Melungtshe (Jobo Garu) 7181 meters, with the purpose of photographing the superb surrounding peaks, just like Shipton in 1951, with the intent and agreement with the people Sherpa of the valley, rappresented by his friend and great mountaineer Mingma G. Sherpa.
We collected a request for help:” Rolwaling is dying, each year the number of persons is reduced, to reach Katmandu or Singapore or China and with the abandonment of territories also our ancient culture”.
With Mingma G.Sherpa of Dreamers Destination, the SRDC of Katmandu, we ( Explora Nunaat International) have signed an agreement to undertake structal and cultural sustainable for the rebirth of the valley. A path similar to the Khumbu valley, an eco friendly project to improve the living conditions of the inhabitants.
To begin with the first aim, create a Museum on School Culture and winsdom of the Sherpas and a school of Climbing for the younger generation, transferring knowledge and promoting the dissemination through publications of articles, books, conferences and video-quality documentaries, sharing through new technologies APP satellite "beauty" of the places and people of the Valley "Hidden".
The program in agreement with the Government of Nepal provides as already made in the '80s by the Nepalese and international bodies, and have seen the exponential growth of tourism in the neighboring region of Khumbu, the actions in solidarity with the Sherpa population, reversing the route of depopulation. Suffice it to say that the Rolwaling in the 90s had been forbidden to Westerners and even today, as it is still not released the simple trekking permit, or to access it must have required a permit for only the ascension of Ramdung or Parchamo. The Explora International Nunaat through local organizations is committed to bring about change and improvement of living conditions leading into the valley.
For the second year we have obtained permission to explore the area around the mountain and Ramdung Parchamo in 2011, while in 2013 the permit provided for the much less explored area of Bomdok.
In years past in the first decade of 2000, Joe Puryear (who died on a mountain with no name of Tibet) and David Gottlieb made the first ascents of Kangnakugo and Takar-Go. Last year Mingma G.Sherpa and his team made the first ascent of 6257 meters and Ceki-Go to the end of October this year, while we were on the team Explora Village of Beding 3693 meters, Phurba Tenzing Sherpa Mingma and then carried out the first ascent of Bamon-Go 6400 meters. We met them as agreements made earlier in the village of Na, at 4180 meters, where we conducted a meeting and interview at the foot of "their" mountain.
After being greeted Destination Dreamers with friends the next day and celebrated their achievement of climbing, we leave behind the village of Na and begin our climb to the high camp at 4800 meters, in the vast and icy glacial valley called by the locals Bomdok, on the right bank of the glacier Ripimo with a beautiful mountain in the center not named on the maps (not to be found in the Nepalese government offices) called by the locals Riki-Go. As said by Dorzie Sherpa (guide at rest and father of Mingma), this mountain rises from the sacred lake Oma Tsho 4800 m , the lake that "Sing".
A beautiful stretch of water cobalt blue nestled between granite giants, the inhabitants of Beding recommend us to leave a gift to the gods and to bring maximum respect to the shrine to their fathers.
We begin the exploration of the area trying to find the way to climb the mountain more accessible not named on the maps, called by the locals Rikigo.
We document photographically all the great walls and surrounding peaks and obligations. We are on the Tibetan border. New frontier of alpinism
Himalayan: BOMDOK. We set up our camp as scheduled on the shore of the frozen lake and sacred Oma Tsho to 4800 meters.
After facing a cold night in a tent with temperatures approaching -20 degrees, the next morning after we woke up we decided to climb to higher altitudes. In the following days, I - Davide Peluzzi, together with Giorgio Marinelli and Marco Di Marcello - with two high altitude porters, and Ragiu Tamang, Sucram Tamang, we reach the high camp at an altitude of 5300 m asl Bomdok. Very steep and icy, characteristic of the mountains of Rolwaling is to be cold and vertical. In fact, considering that only 3600 meters in the vicinity of beding, both in spring and autumn are the impressive waterfalls of ice.
A wonderful amphitheater of peaks and untouched for almost the totality around us.
Over 5000 meters thin air, low temperatures, begin to affect the vital values as well you know ... the main rule and 'to not disperse beyond the limits allowed bodily fluids, the main risk for migraine acute mountain. Daytime temperatures were around minus five degrees at night and down to -20 (minus twenty) degrees.
Thanks to the special permit for the exploration of the area as it was considered sacred and mystic We forwarded with greater sensitivity and respect trai eternal ice of the Himalayas.
We reach the altitude of 5700 m asl (see attached picture) with high winds and icy (jet stream) that prevent the stay at high altitude for a long time. We are able to identify some access roads and strive to climb to the summit at an altitude of 5980 m .... a fantastic viewpoint on other mountains, an ideal set-photo. We stopped at a few hundred meters because of the strong winds from the south. Winds over 100 mph.
Reluctantly we decided to go down to the field and wait for the intermediate subside the jetstream.
Expect a few days but the weather does not change. Our task exploration and documentation with photos and videos of the area was completed as promised Nepal Mountaineering Association, of beding. Now, we could go down to lower altitudes.
As we approach the field Bomdok, Call the satellite to our meteorologist Roberto Madrigali in Italy that warns us of an impending weather change with the arrival of a small perturbation and with more winds from the south. We are at the end of November and winter is knocking at the door.
In the following days we will reach Paolo Trentini, Luca Natali and Prof. Roberto da Porto with the rest of the carriers, continuing the study and hyperoxic genetics.
It should be remembered that in the group of porters were two girls bearers, Sita and Asica, featuring a fortitude and a high threshold of pain tolerance, but always smiling and kindness female Nepalese women. They too are part of the team at high altitude to almost 5000 meters.
Going back down to 4800 meters of base camp, in the following days we explore the glacier Ripimo to the Mount Takar-Go.
We continue the documentation video / photo of the large area in the following days with the idea of creating a project to develop eco-friendly as anticipated and agreed with the Dreamers Destination on Beding - Na village .
1) North Tsoboje - 6589 m
2 ) West wall of an unnamed peak to the north - Tsoboje . 6662 m
3 ) Wall North East of Kang Nakugo - 6735 m
4) Wall north west of Takargo - 6793 m
5 ) South wall of an unnamed mountain in the north Kangnakugo on the Tibetan border - 6036 m
6) Bigwall dell'anticima of Kangnakugo - 6381 m
7) North wall of Chuikyma -Go
8) Walls east of Cekigo Bamongo 6257 and 6400 m -
9) East Wall of Tabyabyum - 5555 m
10) East wall of the Jomo Tsernigma - Gaurishankar - 7146 m
11) The walls hidden Bomdok,
12 ) Wall on the Kangnakugo - 6735 m
13 ) Wall north west of Bigphera -Go Shar 6730 m
14) South wall of Tengi Ragi Tau 6943 m
15) Drangnag -Ri 6801 m
16) Ridge South - North Riki - Go 5981 m
17) Melungtze – Jomo Garu – 7181 m
18) Parchamo – 6273 m
19) Panayo Tippa 6696 m
20) Unnamed Peak – 6692 m
An interesting comparison, some pictures taken in the early '50s with the expeditions led by Eric Shipton confronted with the images of 2011 and 2013.
Autor : Davide Peluzzi
Translate by Stefania Malizia
Thanks to Davide Peluzzi - Explora for this description.