|Difficulty:||Major Mountain Expedition|
|Best months for climbing:||Jul, Aug|
|Year first climbed:||1953|
|First successful climber(s):||V. Shipilov|
|Nearest major airport:||Almaty International Airport|
|Convenient Center:||Narynkol, Almaty|
Thanks to Aldas for adding this peak.
The peak north from Khan-Tengri. The normal route starts from north side (China Pass), through the Uzlovaya peak, Pogranichnik peak, Plateau (north sumit). Expedition may be started from Bayankol camp. One day from there to the glacier under China Pass. Here BC can be settled if needed.
Last time we climbed we made the route according this schedule:
day1 - 4200m, 1st camp.
day2 - peak Uzlovaja (about 4900m), peak of Kaunas Alpine Club (5000m, in China side), camp 2
day3 - descending down to BC
day4 - rest
day5 - climb over Uzlovaya and Pogranichnik (5000m) peaks to the pass at 4800m. Camp 3
day6 - Plateau (6200m), camp 4
day7 - ascention to the principal summit (6400m), sleeping in camp 4
day8 - descent to the BC
Technicaly easy mountain, just in two or three places need of rock climbing. However be aware of crevases and corniches (!!).
Weather is rapidly changing, expect cruel frost and wind. Good warm plastic shoes is a must (if u wanna get back with all your toes).
Thanks to Aldas for this description.