Monte Rosa

Monte Rosa Summit Log (#22560)

  • Signed By: Caj E Svensson
  • Date submitted: November 16, 2019
  • Date(s) climbed: 08/13/2012
  • Number of People Encountered:11-25 people
  • Recommend to a Friend: Highly

Started with a really nice breakfast with yoghurt, coffee and bread at 5 am, at the Margherita hut. Got ready for climbing and left the hut at about 6. Descended to the Colle Gnifetti saddle and ascended Zumsteinspitze on firm snow. Descended to the Grenzsattel along a steep and narrow ridge. Very exposed but with good ice steps coming down. Some rocks in the saddle and more ice to traverse before heading up Dufour. Mixed climbing to the Grenzgipfel and then along the summit ridge up to the top. Highest point in Switzerland. Almost crowded with people - a few came from Zumsteinspitze but I believe most came up from the Swiss side and the Monte Rosa hut.Nice weather with not much wind, just a few small clouds.We traversed back towards Italy and the Grenzgipfel to reach a set of fixed ropes. We descended these to the Silbersattle. This was a busy area with several parties coming down at the same time. A bit messy with all ropes!Eva and Josef started to descend the Monte Rosa glacier to the hut when Per and I started up Nordend. This ridge looks awesome from Dufourspitze. Icy traverse, but nice, from the Silbersattle. A few rocks to work to get to the summit. Two other guys from Italy and us, but no one else. Seems like a very overlooked summit.It gave a great view of Dufourspitze from the Nordend summit. Went back along the same ridge to the Silbersattle. Then following the path down the Monte Rosa glacier to the new Monte Rosa hut. A long hike over the glacier, across an ice fall and then over rocks, following cairns to the hut. Last piece of the hike along a marked trail. We gathered with Josef and Eva for a beer around 3 pm.Both Eva and I got our toes hammered. Eva's feet were hurting from the blisters also. Nice dinner at the hut, with a sallad. Early bedtime after a long day on the mountain.

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